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𝕋𝕙𝕖 𝔼𝕒𝕤𝕥 ℝ𝕚𝕕𝕘𝕖 𝕠𝕗 𝕋𝕒𝕟𝕚𝕘𝕒𝕨𝕒-𝕕𝕒𝕜𝕖
Finally, after a long while of itching for it, we have gone for our first proper alpine climb in Japan. I guess formally it¡Çs the second one after the North ridge of Amida-dake last December, but much more interesting.
Tanigawa is a really beautiful and easily accessible mountain that has, including a few hiking ones, an impressive number of ascent routes, among which there¡Çs an ¡Èeasy¡É one (although with two variations) — of the first category in the local alpine route difficulty grading system.
I applied for the permit 2 weeks in advance as required by the local regulations and we amazingly lucked out with the weather. Although it was partly cloudy, the whole day was dry, between rainy Friday and Sunday. I had also finally completed my sets of cams and chokes for protection.
I really should have read more detailed ascent reports, because the one I had read left me underestimating the actual difficulty of the route. Literally the first report I read after we came back was much closer to our experience in both time and impressions.
The guide book description, being technically correct, is very short and deals only with navigation, noting nothing about protection. I had cams and chokes, but 90% of actual protection I ended up using on the route were in situ pitons of very questionable reliability. The guide also says the route takes 4-6h. It took us 12 to reach the top of the mountain.
𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗔𝗽𝗽𝗿𝗼𝗮𝗰𝗵
5:25 We left the parking lot. It was a beautiful morning, my backpack was feeling heavier than I¡Çm used to. There were other people heading up the mountain as well, but nobody went with us past the turn up the Nishiguro ridge, and we spent the rest of the day with no people around. The jungle trail following Machigasawa is surrounded by thick greenery that prevents air flow and traps humidity, but at that time I was just anticipating that sweating wouldn¡Çt be the biggest manifestation of discomfort that day.
7:10 We reached Âè°ì¸«À²Âæ, where the hiking trail continues up the Nishiguro ridge, and our route splits right and down descending quite steeply onto the glacier snow that still covers Machigasawa. Looking back, this would have been a good place to put on crampons, possibly with harnesses and some hardware. The trail was wet and slippery, and Angelina made a good use of the ice axe for security on the slope. Other than that, we proceeded unprotected, which was still really OK, the snow was soft enough.
7:30 Walking on snow, we got to the big rock at the right side of a waterfall, crossed the bergschrund and took a brunch break until about 8. The rock itself was the first climbing obstacle and had a few in situ pitons. The path then continues up along the creek until its merger point with a smaller Shinsenzawa. We turned along to the right and proceeded on its dry riverbed.
𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗥𝗼𝘂𝘁𝗲
9:30 The fork point in front of a wet wall at which the route splits into two variations. Our chosen variation turns right up a rather steep mixed slope of rock and grass towards the Shinsen col on Tanigawa¡Çs East ridge. This is where we should have put on all our gear, but I was under an impression we wouldn¡Çt need it until up on the ridge. It right away became obvious though that some misconception was going on: the slope was way too steep, slippery and, being covered in tall grass, also devoid of any visible solid protection — to be considered safe. Angelina again made a smart move to pull out the ice axe, while I continued bare-handedly learning which kinds of grass grew strong in the soil and which didn¡Çt.
Navigation was really not an issue at this point: the Shinsen col was clearly visible. The slope though was getting scarier. At some point we managed to put on crampons, which certainly added security. A bit later I found an old anchor point and rigged a belay for Angelina.
11:00 With a bit of struggle we made it to the col and took a short lunch break. The ridge path was also covered in grass and low shrubs, although it wasn¡Çt wet or slippery anymore. Every once in a while we¡Çd pull out the rope for a quick belay in questionable locations, but overall continued untied.
12:30 The ¡È2nd rock barrier¡É. The route description clearly said it was easily climbable up its corner and also avoidable by traversing on its right (as seems to be the case with pretty much all obstacles on the route). In situ pitons provided anchor points for a belay as well as for running protection, and I think I may have found a place for one or two cams. Overall it was easy climbing for ~15 meters with really good holds and another rusty anchor at the top, from where you could start to see Tenjindaira over the Nishiguro ridge.
The ridge then continues alternating a narrow path with grassy slopes and rock formations. For the most part walkable or easily climbable, but with amazing exposure at every point. I realized what we were doing was pretty much ¡Èweed climbing¡É, and after a couple of times taking the rope out and putting it back we decided we¡Çd just tie in and go on simultaneously using whatever protection possible.
Speaking again about protection, it was around that point when it became clear that however pretty my new cams and nuts were on the harness, they were for the most part quite useless, unlike how pitons would¡Çve been. And I had none. Next time I go I will still take the cams, but I will want to have a good set of pitons for sure.
15:20 We weed-climbed to the top of ´ÑÁÒÂæ, a hill from which in a better weather we would¡Çve had a nice view of Ichinokura-dake, but we were just lucky not to be covered in clouds. Tanigawa¡Çs Tomanomimi (the lower peak) was visible, as were people traversing to the main Okinomimi, which itself was still hidden behind the ¡È1st rock barrier¡É.
The route then presents its narrowest section, quite literally a knife edge slanted to the left with its flat wide rocky surface. I grabbed the edge and walked on the left using the boot sole friction, and Angelina, who ended up wearing crampons until the very top, said there also was a small shelf on the right that she used to kind of walk on both sides of the edge.
15:35 I knew the ¡È1st rock barrier¡É was avoidable by traversing to the right but couldn¡Çt help wanting to try and climb it face-on. Instead of an anchor, there was one rusty piton, but also a decent crack for camming, so we made ourselves safe, and I climbed on. It started with a couple overhanging rocks forming a corner and a wet shelf above. I didn¡Çt find any place for a runner but the shelf presented a decent hand hold to pull up. The upper section of the barrier is a steep grassy slope. I¡Çm pretty sure there was one usable crack for a cam too. Nothing secure at the top narrow shelf, so I used the trees further to the right of it for belaying Angelina.
16:10 or so, we cleaned up the shelf and went on. It was funny to think that the check-in deadline in the campsite at the foot of the mountain was 17:00, which coincidentally also was the closing time of the ropeway at Tenjindaira. We could now see the top though, and I¡Çm pretty sure I saw figures of people watching us from above.
The two sections left were a weed-climbable grassy slope and a layered rocky wall to the top which looked OK. The slope was slippery and had crumbling rocks, so against my will I had to look for directions with more grass. By that time I¡Çd already lost all hope for decent protection, and the slope provided none whatsoever.
17:00 We gathered together at the bottom of the last rock formation. It was again full of thin cracks where pitons would¡Çve been a really safe option, but this time there weren¡Çt even any left in situ. I think I climbed the first part and found a rare place suitable for a cam. That cam kept me thinking about its function, because there was no belay point at the bottom, but of course in case of a fall it would¡Çve been better to stay hanging on the mountain than¡Änot. When I topped out right behind the peak, the last person had already left, and the top was left to the two of us.
17:30 We could both exhale at the top and start calling the campsite with apologies.
Of course we gave up on my original plan to descend via the Nishiguro ridge: it is beautiful and fun, but quite technical and therefore unsuitable for how exhausted we were, carrying all the gear, and the sun setting soon. The campsite host told me she¡Çd stay and wait as long as needed (!)
20:15 Almost completely worn-out and moving on Angelina¡Çs anecdotes about frogs and penguins, we got out to Tenjindaira and made ourselves cup noodles with hot water Angelina had been carrying in her thermos the whole way. Originally we planned to have the noodles at the top of Tanigawa, but conscious of onsetting darkness we decided to try to make it to safer ground first. That break was great!
21:53 Back at the parking lot. Quickly drove up to the mountain guidance center to file in the descent report and headed to the campsite.
Next time I¡Çd like to try the left variation of this same route, which apparently involves a crack climb of ~40m before getting out on the ridge behind the 2nd rock barrier, thus avoiding it together with the slippery slope that we had to pretend enjoying this time.
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